Getting up at 6 for the second day in a row wasn't as bad as the first. It was a very cold morning on the 20 minute walk to the sumo stadium. It paid off getting to the stadium about an hour and a half early because the line ended up wrapping around the building. So then we had our sumo tickets at 8:05 am, and another whole day to see the city. We got some breakfast in akihibara and walked around until we got hungry again and went for the Turkish Kebob sandwiches again. They are so good. As I was not initially impressed with akihibara, I warmed up to the city the more time I spent there, plus it wasn't as sleezy and touristy as others. A variety of interesting shops, restaurants and bars all packed into several blocks. We traveled south down to Shiodome to have a beer of the 42 floor of a skyscraper with an amazing view of the city. Then back up to see sumo at 2:30. We stopped by a 7-11 to stash some beers and snacks to sneak into the stadium until we saw people bringing whole grocery bags with food and drinks. Completely different stadium concept than in the US. The stadium was really nice and there were about 6-8 thousand people there. I picked up a radio and tuned to an English commentary station which gave me a lot of info. Sumo is interesting, a lot like bull riding. You wait and wait and wait only to see 8 seconds of action. The guys were huge and the action got more exciting as the day progressed. We were lucky that the emperor and empress of Japan attended the tournament.
After sumo I split up with the guys, as they were headed to another hostel. I had intentions of catching up on my blog and pictures and etc until I met a group of people in the common area. We started taking about sumo and other things to do and next thing I know we are headed to get some rotating sushi in akihiabara. After that we walked forever looking for "Nomehodai" all you can drink. Finally found one in a back ally near our hostel. 2 hours of all you can drink for about $15-$20 USD... I don't remember lol. After we were cut off we set out to find one of the famous japanese karaoke bars we kept hearing about. we found one just down the street and got a private room for 2 hours, a dictionary of songs and 2 tambourines. We started off a little weak but after some more drinks we warmed up to it and it was a blast! They had every song ever. We were all really into it. After that I went back to my capsule and crashed
Monday 1/10, was the first day I've had a chance to sleep in in several days. I got cleaned up and got caught up on some things Travel plans, Emails etc. Forecasting the day flight at 5, airport by 3, train to airport at 1:20. Got all packed up and checked out. I sat downstairs to get caught up on some blogging. Shortly after I got started the guys from New Zealand walked and we started talking about the night before of all you can drink and karaoke. We shared pictures and videos we took the night before and decided that we were hungry. A 20 min walk later we were back in Akahibara and I was in line for another turkish kebob sandwich, to fill myself up for the next 12 hours of travel. I start to head back at 12:40, thinking I had plenty of time. As I get to the beginning of my street 1:10, Shit!! So with 10 minutes, run to hostel, grab my pack, double check train directions, run to the subway terminal, down 3 flights of stairs, buy my ticket (1280 yenn $15) down more stairs and escalator, and to the platform, no train, oh no! Was I too late? It's 1:19... 1:20 train flys in. Whew. Doors closed and train started moving before I even had a chance to sit down. That was too close. The train out of the city was very scenic, cool to see the outer city limits. Monday is a holiday, celebrating 20 year olds - the age you become a legal adult. The parks were packed with people playing sports, waking dogs etc. Got the the airport with plenty of time. Waited by the gate, reading my lonely planet and mentally preparing myself for a big culture shock. As they called standbys to get their boarding pass I waited anxiously in line, wondering if I would be in back for the 7 hour flight to Bangkok: 14C... "I don't know where that is" boarding the plane I count the rows with coach coming up close... Last row in business class elite... 14!!! Fully reclined seats in individual pods, personal tv, amazing! I felt bad for everyone that had to walk through first class and see us pampered with champaign and hot towels. Had a good conversation with the guy next to me, newly wed heading out on their honeymoon, also flying standby. Wife was nice to give him first class. Interesting enough we were on the same flight from SF to Tokyo.
After touchdown (at midnight) and going through customs, I got a cab to my airport hotel for the night.
A blog of my travels to Thailand and other parts of southeast asia in January 2011. Writing about the people I meet, the places I go, the things I try and the experiences I have.
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Monday, January 10, 2011
Fish market and Shibuya
Octopus Shinjuku
4 guys from the hostel and I met down in the lobby to head to the fish market. They were exchange students studying in Singapore, 2 were from Sweden and 2 from Switzerland. We set off down the metro to the south eastern part of the city to the Tsukiji fish market. The market is crazy, trucks, fork lifts, flat bed carts whizzing by you in every direction. Definitely need your head on the swivel. Walking down the tight narrow alleys of the market there were thousands of different venders selling everything living in the water possible. We saw HUGE tuna, eel, mussels, king crab, 50 differnt types of shrimp; it was amazing. The market was about 10-15 rows with each row about 100 yards in length. The whole time you had to watch out for trucks and carts hustling through every intersection. Tourists are technically not allowed in the market until 9am when all the action dies down. So we walked quickly and stayed out of peoples way. After a down and back we felt we had enough fish so we set off to find some Sushi breakfast. We found an amazing restaurant around the corner. It had a conveyer belt going around the sushi bar. With a variety of options. You just pulled the plate of sushi when it passed by, and each plate was a different color to correspond with different prices. I had at least 9-10 plates ranging from yellow tail, tuna, salmon, crab, octopus, shrimp, barracuda, swordfish, even whale ( I was a little sensitive about eating it but it tasted amazing!). When we were done a lady came by with a device that scans the plates, all with an RFID chip, pretty cool. We checked out and headed back uptown to see what the deal with Sumo was, since a big tournament was staring the next day. We found out we needed to be there early next day to stand in line to get a general admission ticket.
After a little r&r back at the hostel we headed to Shinjuku. Know for it's largest metro station in all Japan. I read over 3 million people pass through the station a day. It was a mad house, people everywhere. We walked around the city for a whole, got a bit to eat and set off to Shibuya, for the famous people crossing intersection. It initially didn't look as big as I thought. Green waking light turns and masses of people darted across the street. We went up into a 3 story starbucks to get a higher prospective and take some pics. There must have been 2 thousand people crossing the street at a time. Crazy. We strolled around Shibuya for a bit, walking past all the shops and department stores then hopped back on the metro towards the hostel. Worn out I fell asleep in the common area and called it a night by ten to catch up on some sleep and get up early for Sumo
4 guys from the hostel and I met down in the lobby to head to the fish market. They were exchange students studying in Singapore, 2 were from Sweden and 2 from Switzerland. We set off down the metro to the south eastern part of the city to the Tsukiji fish market. The market is crazy, trucks, fork lifts, flat bed carts whizzing by you in every direction. Definitely need your head on the swivel. Walking down the tight narrow alleys of the market there were thousands of different venders selling everything living in the water possible. We saw HUGE tuna, eel, mussels, king crab, 50 differnt types of shrimp; it was amazing. The market was about 10-15 rows with each row about 100 yards in length. The whole time you had to watch out for trucks and carts hustling through every intersection. Tourists are technically not allowed in the market until 9am when all the action dies down. So we walked quickly and stayed out of peoples way. After a down and back we felt we had enough fish so we set off to find some Sushi breakfast. We found an amazing restaurant around the corner. It had a conveyer belt going around the sushi bar. With a variety of options. You just pulled the plate of sushi when it passed by, and each plate was a different color to correspond with different prices. I had at least 9-10 plates ranging from yellow tail, tuna, salmon, crab, octopus, shrimp, barracuda, swordfish, even whale ( I was a little sensitive about eating it but it tasted amazing!). When we were done a lady came by with a device that scans the plates, all with an RFID chip, pretty cool. We checked out and headed back uptown to see what the deal with Sumo was, since a big tournament was staring the next day. We found out we needed to be there early next day to stand in line to get a general admission ticket.
After a little r&r back at the hostel we headed to Shinjuku. Know for it's largest metro station in all Japan. I read over 3 million people pass through the station a day. It was a mad house, people everywhere. We walked around the city for a whole, got a bit to eat and set off to Shibuya, for the famous people crossing intersection. It initially didn't look as big as I thought. Green waking light turns and masses of people darted across the street. We went up into a 3 story starbucks to get a higher prospective and take some pics. There must have been 2 thousand people crossing the street at a time. Crazy. We strolled around Shibuya for a bit, walking past all the shops and department stores then hopped back on the metro towards the hostel. Worn out I fell asleep in the common area and called it a night by ten to catch up on some sleep and get up early for Sumo
First day in Tokyo
I decided to wait a bit before I blogged from the first few days. I've covered a lot of the city the and I needed some time to let it sink in and process...
First: Japanese people
- the past few days I have really observed the flow and behaviors of the people of Tokyo. In general the people are very obedient of standard rules. For example they won't cross a street on red, even if there isn't a car in sight. They automatically cue into line. When the metro comes they all line up into single file lines, wait for the exiting passengers and file in. It's as if their mind set is "I will file in line so we all can get on this train", whereas Americans is "I will push my way through this mob so I can get on the train." they are very unselfish. They are not as openly sharing as the Argentines but they are very respectful and aware of everyone around them. One of the reasons contributing to this behavior is the lack of distracting devices we so love to use. While walking you will rarely see anyone: eating, drinking, talking on their phone, texting, or reading. Smoking is prohibited in the streets except in designated smoking areas. However smoking is allowed is all restaurants and bars which is ironic. They are solely focused on where they are going, who and what is around them. For the most part slower traffic keeps left, passing on the right, and watch out for bikes. Traffic yields to walking pedestrians with a green crossing light. A lot different from Argentina where you had to watch out all the time.
The biggest thing I have noticed is the extreme time and attention to detail put into everything. They are so organized, planned, prepared and efficient. It's pretty inspiring to see how seamless everything flows, at least from an outsider's prospective, they appear to have it all figured out.
Friday morning, after a good nights sleep, I got ready for the day and went downstairs to see who and what everyones plans were for the day. I asked reception what the recommended for the first day - they said travel north to Asakusa and then west to Nueno, south to Akihabara then back east. Literally making a square. I asked around to see if anyone wanted to join, no takers so I head out. It was recommended
I take the subway up 2 stops but it looked close enough to walk so I loaded up with water and a snack and headed out.
Japan had been very cold (35-40s and windy). So put zipped up my jacket, sunglasses and beanie. First thing in noticed walking along the streets was how much I stood out. No one wears sunglasses or hats of any kind. Keeping my beanie on, I took off the shades so I would look as much of a terrorist. Strolling up the streets was a great way to get a feel for the city, and see how everything flows.
I followed the masses of people flocking toward a souvenir market and a large temple. At first look I had no clue what was going on. People were pouring water over their hands, drinking, spitting, waving smoke in their face, throwing coins clapping and praying. Didn't understand any of it but I did my best follow by example. Asakusa is a more conventional, historic area of Tokyo. Dozens of very pretty temples, rock gardens, bonsai trees and statutes. After roaming around for an hour I set off to Ueno. Roamed another mile of retail stores, small sushi and noodle places, kiosks until I found a map and got my bearings. Across the street was a McDonalds, with all intentions of avoiding American chain food for a month I felt it was a good spot to escape the cold and plan out the second half of the day. The only open seat was on the 3rd floor (yes a 3 story McDonalds) sucks it was the smoking level. I pulled out my lonely planet and read up on the 3 areas of the day and found a blurb about temple tradition:
First you take the ladle by the fountain- wash your hand and mouth to purify yourself. Approach the temple, donate, clap, prey, and bang the gong. Makes sense. Took a stroll the massive park in Ueno with several museums, wasn't interested and set off to the metro station. On the way I passed a smaller more humble temple. I took a peak in the gate. No one there. It was very pretty so I decided to attempt the sequence of ritual. Purified, pray, gong then lit a spirit stick and waved the smoke over my head and face. The stick had a backwards swastika- meaning peace and love I think. It was pretty spiritual, and being the only person added to the feeling. I slowly strolled through the temple yard paying attention the the small detail and hard work into the trees, bamboo work and rock placement. Very interesting.
Akihabara is known as "electric city" for its edge electronics and gadget devices. I was pretty excited to see it. Walking through the streets I saw a ton of tvs, DVDs, iPhones, computers etc, but nothing I had never seen before. Pretty much a bunch if best buys, radio shacks and AT&T stores for 8 square blocks. Initially was not so impressed with akihibara. Getting pretty hungry I found a street tuck selling Turkish kebob sandwiches. The truck had a huge skewer of spinning meat, cut with a sword. The meat was put into a pita, with graded cabbage, onions sliced tomatoes and your choice of sauce. It was awesome, quick, filling and cheap - only 500 yen ($6)
I set off back to the hostel... Thinking I was going the right way. After about 10 blocks I asked someone if I was headed in the right direction - nope, compete opposite way. I was at least 20 blocks from the hostel and it was getting dark and cold. The man, his name Yoshi, walked me all the way to the metro, and got me situated with what train I needed to get on to get back.
Very nice of him.
Finally getting back I was wiped out. I would guess I walked between 12 and 15 miles that day. I saw a lot and got a great feel for the city. Met some new friends at the hostel and we ended up going back out to akihibara for dinner, now I know how to get there. Coming back at night was a whole different scene. Dozens of restaurants, shops and lights glittered the streets. We searched for about an hour "Nomehodai" - all you can drink, but never found it. Turning in for the night we made plans to get up early and see the fish market at 6:30am...
Friday, January 7, 2011
Beer vending machines and bidets
Beer vending machines and awesome toilets
One of the best things about this hostel is the beer vending machine. Drop in 270 yenn and you get an ice cold 500ml can of Asahi. The local beer brand. It can get much better than that.
Now for this crazy toilet. It took a while to figure out what this thing actually does...
When you first sit down the seat is comfortably warm. Do your business and wipe as you normally would. Now the cool part is the bidet aspect. You select what kind of "spray" you want. You have a lot of options. You can select the type of spray: narrow, wide and female. Water strength, temperature Etc. And the cool part is when you stand up a sensor releases a quick shot of air freshener. As the toilet refills you can wash your hands. Pretty cool contraption....
On the way to Tokyo
The sleep deprivation finally caught up with me so I ended up getting a hotel in San Bruno, about 8 minutes from the airport. Still with intentions of fining some kind of nightlife action I took a walk around the hotel. Found a humble Irish pub, with about 6 people in it. Had. Beer and was directed to a good late night Mediterranean place. Ate and got a good nights rest. Got to the airport early and ordered an overpriced omelette from a restaurant in the terminal. I te at the bar alongside some guys slamming back beers and mixed drinks. Talked with them a while, they go to college in SF and flying to Miami to celebrate one of their 21st birthdays. Doing it big time.
As I was walking over to to my gate they were announced for all stand by passengers to come up and get their seating assignment: 6A - First Class window!!! I was sooo pumped. I was greeted with champaign, hot towel, pillow, blanket and plenty of leg room. My seat mate was a girl my age: Kyoko, an Asian American from San Francisco. She was flying back to Tokyo after the holidays to continue working for the teach English abroad program. Great conversation. It was hard to sleep on the flight because it was still in the middle of the day for me. I watched a couple movies, listened to music and talked with Kyoto about the similarities and differences between USA and Japan. Approaching the coastline, japan appeared to be pretty flat. Looked to a California type beach, narrow dark sand beaches, hardly anything developed around it though. Lots of baseball fields. We landed at 5pm the next day - a 17 hour time change. Kyoto was a lot of help getting me on the right trains into the city. One of the first things I noticed about Japan is how clean everyhing is. And there are no janitors and hardly any trash cans. Everyone takes responsibility for their own waste... And it works, interesting concept huh? Kyoto says the schools don't have to janitors, the kids are responsible for cleaning the classrooms, floors, bathrooms etc.
The train (mostly like a city metro) from Narita airport into the city was about 1:30 total with 1 transfer, with little to see since it was dark. It was a little nerve racking not sure if I was on the right train or not. I asked- pointing to my destination written on my cell phone, pointing to the train and a thumbs up or down, it was funny. First thing I noticed stepping on the train: EVERYONE was on their cell phones, no conversation at all. Most everyone had headphones on, and starring right into the screens. I would assume some were texting and others playing games or music, but everyone that got onto the train, old and young, pulled out a cell. I felt obligated to follow suit.
Walking out of the train I followed the mob the exit, merging onto the escalator everyone single file lined up all the way to the left, standing in the middle ("typical American") I remembered transportation is backward from us, so quickly followed suit. As I walked up out onto street level I did the 360 cinematic panoramic gaze at this foreign land. It was pretty much what I imagined: busy streets, bright lights, bustling crowds and Japanese. Quick look at my map and off to the hostel. Walking on the left side of the side walk I continued to gaze at the taxis, bikes, street lights, signals, billboards; taking in all the "flow."
The hostel is really nice. Not the best location for walking action buy the metro is really close. Jet lag finally caught up so I grabbed some food from a connivence store around the corner, and chilled at the hostel with some other people staying here.
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Overcoming travel adversity
Monday was an interesting day. Got all my last minute errands done, bag packed, bank, AAA, Int drivers license (just in case), hostels booked, agenda starting to take shape so I was feeling more at ease... Until I get a call at 9pm from my chief itinerary manager (Zander) saying that my LA to Tokyo flight was booked and I wouldn't get a seat (since I'm flying standby). So we worked on different strategies to get me to Tokyo for about an hour. We ended up with GVL to ATL to JFK to SFO to Tokyo. This could be done in 2 days if everything went perfect. Now to the next challenge: Tokyo to Bangkok... Originally I was only going to stay 1 day. That flight is booked until Monday the 10th, looks like I'll be in Tokyo for a while now. So not to add any more stress and anxiety... I'll be in the most populous city in the world for 5 days. A city I had not planned on nor know really anything about. I had to cancel all my prior hostel bookings and luckily booked what looks to be a pretty good hostel in Tokyo. With very little peace of mind I headed to see my mom late at night before I left then to my dad's who dropped me off at the airport. I gave Janell (who is traveling to Costa Rica) some last minute travel advice and packing tips, and attempted to go to sleep around 2am.
With a little more than 2 hours to sleep, restless with travel anxiety, worry that my alarm clock has the iPhone glitch app, and the fear of the unknown, the adrenaline starts to kick in as soon as the alarm goes off. Game Time!
Get to the airport late (5:45am) as the plane is boarding, TSA feels it necessary to confiscate my face wash, sunscreen and tooth paste, oh well. I get on the first flight to Atl.
Soon after take off, I looked out into the darkness to find a beautiful sun about to rise over Greenville - , a dull yellowish orange sky split a dark city poked with small dots of light and a royal navy blue starry galaxy. It was really really cool.
Approaching Atlanta after we had out run the sunrise, it was a sight to see all the traffic from above. Highways glowing like arteries pumping life into the awakening city.
The Atl to JFK flight was packed! I was lucky to get on, I think there were only 4 or 5 people behind me until every seat was filled. Had a middle seat between an older man who didn't speak a lick of English and a younger girl on her way to Israel who was not much for small talk. 1.5 hours later we arrive. The airport was smaller than I envisioned. A cool thing about some of the gates were dozens of iPads set up to be used to surf the web, play games or order food. I found a brookstone and put in a good 30 minutes in this awesome back and foot massager, then went back to play with the iPads... Airports can only be so fun, not to mention how impossible it is to sleep in them. I almost think they design seating so you can't.
So I sat waiting at JFK on the 3:15 flight to San Fran. Looking at my standby priority keep dropping. It started at 4, then 7 and peaked at 10 I think. It was pretty disheartening to see that there were only 3 open seat at the time. I was already concinced i wasnt making this flight. Slowly as everyone boarded my priority went up until I was next on the list as the airline was waiting for a lady named Kathryn. They must have made a dozen announcements, double checked the cabin, and finally as they were about to close the door they let me in. It was a rush. Got situated in a window seat with a stellar view of the right wing :-/ I was still able to catch a quick glimpse of NYC on take off. Flight was really long almost 7 hours. Again hard to sleep. Ive been practicing the Da Vinci sleep schedule: 20 minutes of sleep every 2 or so hours. Very boring flight, I need more iPhone games, angry birds just isn't cutting it. We landed safely to a pretty night view of the city and bay area. I went down to baggage claim to talk to people about places to stay and how to get around the city. Got some good advice about the BART system and some cool places to check out. I got a message from my buddy Jay, who lives out here, said he will be arriving to SF also. So I am waiting now for his arrival to see what we can figure out.
Today has been a very interesting day. Over 16 hours of travel time, over 3,800 sky miles and 4 airports. Pretty wiped out but it's only 8:30 and something tells me today's not over... Next flight tomorrow SF to Tokyo at 12pm, so stay tuned - the adventure has just begun :)
With a little more than 2 hours to sleep, restless with travel anxiety, worry that my alarm clock has the iPhone glitch app, and the fear of the unknown, the adrenaline starts to kick in as soon as the alarm goes off. Game Time!
Get to the airport late (5:45am) as the plane is boarding, TSA feels it necessary to confiscate my face wash, sunscreen and tooth paste, oh well. I get on the first flight to Atl.
Soon after take off, I looked out into the darkness to find a beautiful sun about to rise over Greenville - , a dull yellowish orange sky split a dark city poked with small dots of light and a royal navy blue starry galaxy. It was really really cool.
Approaching Atlanta after we had out run the sunrise, it was a sight to see all the traffic from above. Highways glowing like arteries pumping life into the awakening city.
The Atl to JFK flight was packed! I was lucky to get on, I think there were only 4 or 5 people behind me until every seat was filled. Had a middle seat between an older man who didn't speak a lick of English and a younger girl on her way to Israel who was not much for small talk. 1.5 hours later we arrive. The airport was smaller than I envisioned. A cool thing about some of the gates were dozens of iPads set up to be used to surf the web, play games or order food. I found a brookstone and put in a good 30 minutes in this awesome back and foot massager, then went back to play with the iPads... Airports can only be so fun, not to mention how impossible it is to sleep in them. I almost think they design seating so you can't.
So I sat waiting at JFK on the 3:15 flight to San Fran. Looking at my standby priority keep dropping. It started at 4, then 7 and peaked at 10 I think. It was pretty disheartening to see that there were only 3 open seat at the time. I was already concinced i wasnt making this flight. Slowly as everyone boarded my priority went up until I was next on the list as the airline was waiting for a lady named Kathryn. They must have made a dozen announcements, double checked the cabin, and finally as they were about to close the door they let me in. It was a rush. Got situated in a window seat with a stellar view of the right wing :-/ I was still able to catch a quick glimpse of NYC on take off. Flight was really long almost 7 hours. Again hard to sleep. Ive been practicing the Da Vinci sleep schedule: 20 minutes of sleep every 2 or so hours. Very boring flight, I need more iPhone games, angry birds just isn't cutting it. We landed safely to a pretty night view of the city and bay area. I went down to baggage claim to talk to people about places to stay and how to get around the city. Got some good advice about the BART system and some cool places to check out. I got a message from my buddy Jay, who lives out here, said he will be arriving to SF also. So I am waiting now for his arrival to see what we can figure out.
Today has been a very interesting day. Over 16 hours of travel time, over 3,800 sky miles and 4 airports. Pretty wiped out but it's only 8:30 and something tells me today's not over... Next flight tomorrow SF to Tokyo at 12pm, so stay tuned - the adventure has just begun :)
Monday, January 3, 2011
Counting down the hours...
Less than 16 hours before my first flight. I am glad that I was able to hang out with a lot of my friends the past few days. New years and the past couple nights have been a lot of fun.
I am having waves of anxiety about going. I am really excited but still pretty nervous. I don't think it will really hit me until I land in Tokyo and I can't read or understand anything. The biggest thing I am really concerned with now is making my flights and getting to my final destination. I have less than an hour to make my connection in ATL. Also my flight from Tokyo to Bangkok will arrive at midnight, and finding my way to the hostel would be a challenge. I'm going to get the flight changed to the next day but I"ve heard it's cheapest to do it at the airport.
I spent this morning going down a combination of check lists from Argentina and other ideas that have popped in my head the past few weeks. I got everything laid out and (very) organized. Nothing is packed loose. Everything is put into quart size zip lock bags or compression sacks. It makes life so much easier, especially airports. I packed the zip locks based on category - bathroom (toothbrush, soap, etc), technology (chargers, batteries, cords etc)... you get the idea. I will post my full pack checklist.
I assembled everything, double checked my list and starting packing... I finished in less than 2 minutes and was left with the feeling... Is that it? I checked my list again and guessed I did a good job packing. I am fighting the temptation to pack more since I have soooo much room in my pack. I am taking more than I did to Argentina but my pack weighs less. Weighed out I'm only carrying 23 lbs! Argentina bag weighed about 26lbs. Anyway, I'm really excited, I"ll be able to carry on my bag and I'll have plenty of room to pick up stuff along the way. Having everything packed and ready to go is giving me a lot more peace of mind.
I have several other errands to do before the day is over - load up a prepaid debit card, get an international drivers license, and a number of other odds and ends.
I guess there's not much more to talk about until the flights... :)
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